Strength training on the hangboard: training planning

The training models presented here all refer to hangboard training in the classic sense, i.e. targeted and largely isolated finger strength training through static hanging.

In addition, the Station44 offers the possibilities for countless other training concepts and exercises.
The Station44 stands out from conventional hangboards in terms of versatility, especially due to the pegboard elements and hanging loops, combined with the general modularity. With the appropriate setup, even smaller campus moves are possible here and in this respect a strengthening of the muscles far beyond the fingers.

Maximum strength and endurance

But this is about the "classic" finger strength training mentioned above.
Basically, a distinction must be made between two approaches; maximum strength training and strength endurance training.

Put simply, maximum strength determines whether or not you can hold on to a particular grip, while muscular endurance determines how long you can hold on to a particular grip.

If you regularly fail at certain moves or individual grips that are too small, you should prioritize maximum strength training.
If, on the other hand, your projects are mostly hindered by over-acidification of the muscles, the so-called "pump", then it is important to improve your endurance.

1. Maximum strength training

2. Strength endurance training

Choose a pair of handles that you can just about hang from with your utmost strength for 13-15 seconds .

The training is based on the following scheme: three sets of six repetitions each

1 set = 6 reps + 5 minute rest
1 rep = 7 seconds hang + 3 seconds rest

An entire workout is built up as follows:

7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec. Hang

5 min break

7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec. Hang

5 min break

7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec hang - 3 sec pause - 7 sec. Hang

Finished!

3. "7-53" after Eric Hörst

A popular hybrid form of the two approaches shown is the so-called "7-53" training, named after the duration of the load or regeneration intervals.

Choose a pair of handles that you can just about hang from with your utmost strength for 13-15 seconds .

The training is based on the following scheme: four sets of three repetitions each

1 set = 3 repetitions + 5 minutes rest
1 rep = 53 seconds hang + 7 seconds rest

An entire workout is built up as follows:

53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang - 7 sec rest

5 min break

53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang

5 min break

53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang - 7 sec rest - 53 sec hang

Finished!

additional weight and relief

Do you want to improve on a specific grip (e.g. on the sloper), but can you hang on these grips for significantly longer or shorter than 13 or 7 seconds? Then you can adjust the subjective difficulty of the corresponding grips by increasing or decreasing your body weight.
To increase your height, you can easily wear a climbing harness with attached weights or something similar. Reduction is best done with a supporting exercise band that is hooked into one of the straps on the board.

Balanced training

The breaks between the sets do not have to be “seated” without moving. They primarily serve to regenerate the parts of the body that are most stressed during hanging, i.e. the fingers. Exercises that do not involve finger and grip strength (especially chest, shoulder and leg exercises) can be easily integrated into the training via the breaks.
Not only is the training time used efficiently, but at the same time one-sided overtraining is prevented.

basics

You can also find a few general hints and tips for minimizing the risk of injury in the article Training on a Hangboard: Basics .